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Carlita: FreeSewing's Carlita Coat

New Carlita pattern

Designer Notes​

Carlita is Carlton with a full bust adjustment worked into a princess seam. It is, in other words, Carlton for people who have breasts, or at least are looking for a more female-presenting cut.

Apart from that, it’s pretty much the same, with the exception of the chest pocket which for Carlita is worked into the princess seam.

Just like with Carlton, I can’t claim all credit for myself as this design was a collaboration with my friend Anneke Caramin.

joost

What You Need​

To make Carlita, you will need the following:

warning

Carlita has a lot of pieces! These lengths are estimates, you may need more or less depending on your size but if in doubt add an extra 0.5 to 1 metre of fabric.

Fabric Options​

Main Fabric​

You want a fabric that has a bit of body that holds its shape. Generally Wools of coating weight will be the best choice as they will provide warmth and give shape to the coat. Other fabrics of coating weight should also work. However if you are looking for something more lightweight you could try Linens and lighter Wools, but you may need to face these fabrics to give them more body before construction. Fleece is a cheaper alternate to Wools but may note keep as long, if you are putting the effort into properly tailoring Carlita then you are gonna want to consider buying a fabric that will last for a long period of time.

note

Remember that this pattern is intended to be a winter coat so you need to consider warmth when choosing your fabric.

Linings and Pocket Bags​

Lightweight Cottons such as Cotton Silesia, Cotton Lawn or Glazed Cottons should do for the body lining but you may find that you require Silks or similar for the sleeve linings to reduce friction and make it easier to take on and off over the arms. Silks can also be used for the body as well but the Cotton will be more durable in the long run. Pocket bags should be out of Cotton or something that is strong enough to hold the weight of the intended items you wish to carry in them. Printed Cottons are a fun thing to try but if your main fabric is quite bulky you may find they add to much weight.

tip

As per usual with Linings it is really down to your prefered lining materials but if you are new to lining a coat we suggest to use the Cotton options for the body and pockets and use the Silk option for the sleeves.

Facings​

We recommend Hair canvases. You may be tempted to use modern interfacing but hair canvases will provide the best results. You will want a combination of different weight hair canvases such as lightweight to medium weight Tailors Canvas and heavyweight Horsehair Canvas. A common misconception is that you have to use horsehair canvas for all of it, but this is not the case and really is only needed for areas that need the most structure such as the front shoulder but are often too stiff for other parts. Tailors canvas is generally used for the majority of facing a coat.

tip

You can use fusible or non-fusible facings but you may find that you still need to flatline the facing and fabric pieces together with basting stitches, even after fusing for the best results.

note

Certain hair canvases, such as Horsehair canvas can have stiff hairs that can poke out of the fabric so will require tape like tailors tape to prevent this from happening.

Cutting Instructions​

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Certain parts have to be drafted off of the existing parts. How to draft these are provided in the instructions.

Materials​

  • Main fabric
    • Cut 2 Front parts
    • Cut 2 Side parts
    • Cut 2 Front facing parts
    • Cut 2 Back parts
    • Cut 2 topsleeve parts
    • Cut 2 undersleeve parts
    • Cut 2 tail parts
    • Cut 4 belt parts
    • Cut 2 Collar stand parts
    • Cut 2 collar parts on the fold or Cut the upper collar on the fold and the under collar on the bias
    • Cut 2 cuffFacing parts
    • Cut 2 Pocket parts
    • Cut 4 pocketFlap parts
    • Cut 2 chestPocketWelt parts
    • Cut 2 innerPocketWelt parts
note

If your main fabric is quite lightweight and flimsy you may need to interface all the parts with a lightweight interfacing.

  • Lining fabric
    • Cut 2 Front lining parts
    • Cut 2 Side parts
    • Cut 2 Back parts
    • Cut 2 topsleeve parts
    • Cut 2 undersleeve parts
    • Cut 2 tail parts
    • Cut 2 innerPocketBag parts
    • Cut 1 innerPocketTab parts
    • Cut 2 pocketLining parts
    • Cut 2 chestPocketBag parts
  • Light to Mediumweight Hair Canvas
    • Cut 2 Front parts
    • Cut 2 Side parts
    • Cut 1 Collar stand parts
    • Cut 2 collar parts on the bias and seam together
    • Cut 2 cuffFacing parts
    • Cut 2 pocketFlap parts
    • Cut 2 chestPocketWelt parts
    • Cut 2 innerPocketWelt parts
  • Heavyweight Hair Canvas
    • Cut 2 Front shoulder parts
    • Cut 2 Side shoulder parts
    • Cut 2 Back shoulder parts
note

The canvas parts need to be cut nett (without seam allowances).

comment

Instead of cutting the canvas parts nett, there is an alternate method where seam allowance is included on the canvas parts. The idea is that because the canvas parts have seam allowance, when they are attached to the main fabric pieces this can allow ease to be worked into the garment for a better shape. The seam allowance is then trimmed from the canvas at a later point in the garment construction process.

However, because this is a more advanced tailoring technique, our instructions are instead written with the nett canvas method.

Benjamin F.