Charlie: FreeSewing's Charlie Chinos
Designer Notes
I don’t think I have ever had a design where I knew what I was going to name it long before sitting down to actually create it. Charlie Chinos was just too good to not make happen.
It took a while because it took a long time before Titan was in a state where I was happy with it. Trousers are hard. Trouser blocks double so.
This is for the most part a rather straight-forward chino pattern, but it has one twist: The front packets are placed on the side seam. That side seam wraps around towards the front to give the slanted pocket look.
It’s a bit of unusual and creative design that I guess I did because I can? Anyway, it’s something to be mindful of because if you do not expect it the front panels look a bit weird.
joost
What You Need
To make Charlie, you will need the following:
- Basic sewing supplies
- About 1.5 meters (1.7 yards) of a suitable fabric (see Fabric Options)
- About 30 centimeters (12 inches) of lining fabric (used for pocket bags)
- Fusible interfacing for the back pockets
- A zipper and button for the fly
Fabric Options
The obvious choice for Charlie chinos, is chino fabric, which is a cotton twill fabric. These days it’s often sold as a blend to a little bit of stretch, which is optional.
But you have a lot of options here, and your choice of fabric will influence what sort of style these project.
Go for wool for the most classic look. Check the suiting section of your fabric store for options. If this is your first pair, some wool-poly blend is most likely going to be more budget-friendly. But don’t let price alone guide you, buying some cheap whimsical fabric is the best way to come up with a shitty looking pair of trousers, and get frustrated in the process.
For cotton, go for a heavier weight. Cotton might also be a bit easier on the beginner than wool. If unsure what to use, ask for chino in the fabric store and simply pick a colour you like.
Nothing beats linen on a hot summer day. It’s fun to work with too, but it does wrinkle like a mofo, and even the most neatly made trousers look somewhat messy when made in linen. What I’m saying is, maybe not for your first pair.
Cutting Instructions
From main fabric
- Part 1: 2 x with good sides together.
- Part 2: 2 x with good sides together.
- Part 4: 4 x
- Part 6: 2 x
- Part 8: 4 x (2 pairs with good sides together)
- Part 9: 1 x
- Part 10: 1 x on the fold
- Part 11: 1 x if making a straight waistband
- Part 11: 2 x with good sides together if making a curved waistband
- Part 12: 1 x
From lining (or any material suitable for pocket bags)
- Part 5: 2 x
- Part 7: 2 x
From fusible interfacing
- Part 3: 2 x
You can cut part 4 from a different color for a little contrasting detail at the back pockets