Lucy: FreeSewing's Lucy Tie-On Pocket
Designer Notes
This is a 18th century pocket pattern based on the hanging pocket in Patterns of Fashion 1 pp. 73. I made it so people could have a historical pocket pattern that is easily adjustable.
I would like historical patterns and resources to be more accessible to people so the documentation has some historical context and suggestions on historically accurate ways to make it, but its just as awesome to see people make wild modern versions.
Zee
Tie-on pockets like Lucy were worn roughly from the mid-seventeenth (1650s) century until the end of the 19th century (1890s). They came in all shapes and sizes but Lucy is based on an 18th century example.
They were worn and used by all members of society and were mainly womens wear as men had a variety of pockets sewn into their clothing.
Pockets would be tied around the waist and could be accessed through a slit in skirts and petticoats. Where the pocket would be in between the layers was up to the individual. If it was hidden in between layers that would provide more security, but hinder accessibility. People who worked in trade often wore their pockets on the outside of their garments entirely, for easy access.
(Tie-on) Pockets were used alongside patch pockets, sewn in pockets, bags and other ways to carry your things. Sometimes they even had additional pockets hidden inside them!
If you want to learn more you can read: Burman, B. & Fennetaux A. (2020) The Pocket, A Hidden History of Women’s Lives Yale University Press, London
What You Need
To make Lucy, you will need the following:
- Basic sewing supplies
- About 0.5 meters (0.6 yards) of suitable fabric (see Fabric Options
- About 0.5 meters (0.6 yards) of fabric if using a lining
- About 2 meters (2.2 yards) of bias binding or strips of fabric if binding the edges
- A length of tape that you can tie around your waist to make the ties with
Pockets like these do not need to be made out of whole pieces of fabric, you can piece together scraps into a large enough piece to cut your pocket pattern out of. Neither do both sides need to be made out of the same fabric.
Fabric Options
Because pockets were worn by people in every layer of society historically what they were made out of varied intensely. Some were made out of sturdy and plain fabrics, marked with the owners initials. Others were made out of lavish silks or richly embroidered.
As such when it comes to fabric options the world is your oyster.
- Modern prints make fun modern pockets
- Use a plain cotton or linen for a more historical option
- Have a lot of scraps? Make a patchwork pocket!
- Pockets were often a first embroidery project, so go wild if you want to
The one thing to keep in mind is how stable your fabric is. If it is not very stable or you think it won’t hold very much weight, you can add a lining.
Additionally, if you are handsewing your pocket it is worth picking a fabric that isn’t too thick or heavy.
Your binding doesn’t have to be the same colour as the main fabric either. You can use it to add a fun accent, or make your pocket fancier. Bias binding curves easier around any curves, but you can just as easily use strips of fabric as a more waste conscious option.
The ties can be made from self fabric, or you can use something like a twill tape instead.
As always, whether you want to stick to historical practices or make something modern is entirely up to you!
Cutting Instructions
- Cut 2 pocket parts
- Cut pocket slit into 1 pocket part